Monday, November 30, 2009

More Pictures....

Here are a few more pictures now that it's dry and in the garage. Although it doesn't show it here, the large metal 'scoop' is now gone.

I've gotten the master cylinder loose, just need to disconnect the brake lines. The nuts holding those on are rusted and I'm waiting on the rust penetrant to do its thing.

I think the best thing to do after I get the engine running is to remove the body to gain easy access to the brakes, drive train, suspension, etc.











Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Master Cylinder

Managed to get the master cylinder off tonight. The hole in the top indicates it might need replacing. The two bolts holding it in place didn't give up without a fight, but after 3 days of PB B'Laster penetrant, they came loose.

This stuf is great and I believe I'll be needing a few cans before this project is over. Used it to loosen up a couple of stuck pistons in a '54 Evinrude 7.5HP outboard.

So the short term plan is to replace the master cylinder, get a fuel pump and a muffler and see about getting the engine stable. Then test out the brakes, transmission, etc...

I think the transfer case needs work. I can shift between High and Low 4 wheel drive, but the lever to engage/disengage doesn't move. It may be stuck in 4WD.

Will order some parts for delivery week after Thanksgiving as nothing major will get done until then.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

First Task

After doing some initial thinking, I believe I'll focus on getting the engine operating. One thing to consider is converting the electrical system from 6v to 12v.

The ignition coil is labeled as 6v, but the prior owner said it was 12v, and in fact, started the engine with what I assume was a 12v battery. I explored the idea of using a 12v battery and introducing a reducer between the battery and the ignition coil. However, the reducer is about the same price as a new 12v ignition coil, so I think I'll go with the new coil.

This will allow me to upgrade the components and add more items such as a winch. I do need to research what this means to the gauges.

This will not be a 'show' jeep. This is purely a toy for myself.

Back to the engine running...I want to get that going so I can test the clutch, transmission, transfer case and eventually the brakes. I’m debating whether or not to take the body off while working on the underbody component: clutch, transfer case, transmission, brakes, etc. On one hand, it’ll make access so much simpler. On the other, I might be able to get enough working to drive around the neighborhood which would be lots of fun!

I might be able to get something done prior to Thanksgiving.


We’ll see.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

And so it begins....

November 1, 2009. My new project. Much to my better half's shagrin, I've bartered a Willys 1951 CJ3a jeep. Traded a 10' jon boat and motor + some cash. So I'm starting out with less than $400 into it.

The details:
Serial number 451-GB1-29540.
Built 1951 #19540 out of 44,158 (Serial numbers started at 10001)


The Good (also know as the short-list)
Working engine - F-134 Hurricane 4 cyl. For those in the know, you'll recognize that this is the CJ3B engine which is taller that the L 134 engine. I'll deal with that later, but for now, you know why there is a hole in the hood.

Four good tires - 7.00-15LT are in really good shape.
Steering in good shape

The prior owner was very intent in my understanding that the 4WD worked great, but we couldn't drive it due to no brakes. We'll see how that goes.

Upper body in OK shape, with the amount of rust one would expect.

The Bad Just about everything else...
Floorboards are rusted out and prior owner replaced with sheet metal.
No fuel system - tank to fuel pump - zip, nada, nothing.
No brakes - prior owner said that it needed a new master cylinder, but I suspect it needs a lot more then that.
Interior needs complete overhall, although it does have all the gauges including original speedometer/odometer
Rust....rust...rust....
Muffler missing..
Wiring...
On and on....